The hammam: the back story

About The hammam: the back story

By the ULTIMATE Istanbul Editorial Team

Editor-in-Chief: Jai Michael

The hammam descends from the Roman bath and was central to Ottoman life: a place for cleanliness, rest, conversation and celebration. Istanbul still has historic hammams by the great architects, several beautifully restored.

How it works

You change in the camekan, the domed entrance hall, wrap yourself in a peştemal (a cotton cloth) and pass through a warm room into the hot room, the sıcaklık. Lie on the heated marble to sweat, then an attendant scrubs you with a coarse mitt, the kese, and washes you in clouds of soap foam. Rinse with warm water from the basins, then rest with tea in the entrance hall.

The göbek taşı

The centre of the hot room is the göbek taşı, the “belly stone”, a raised marble platform heated from below. Above it, the dome is pierced with small glass openings that let in shafts of light through the steam.

Light falls into the hot room through small glass openings in the dome, often called elephant’s eyes.

Which hammam?

The historic hammams of the old city, such as Cağaloğlu, Çemberlitaş and the Hürrem Sultan Hammam, and Kılıç Ali Paşa in Tophane, offer full traditional treatments in superb buildings; prices are those of a spa. Historic baths traditionally have separate sections or hours for men and women. Many hotels also have their own hammams.

Etiquette

Keep the peştemal on in the shared areas, drink plenty of water, and do not go straight after a big meal. Book ahead at the popular hammams, and check whether the price includes the scrub and the foam massage. A tip for the attendant is appreciated.

Our advice: choose one of Sinan’s hammams for the architecture, go in the late afternoon after a day of walking, take the full scrub and foam wash, and give yourself an hour to rest with tea afterwards. You will sleep like a sultan.

Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with The hammam: the back story before you go.