What's onThis week in Istanbul
Your trusted, one‑stop guide to Istanbul
Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities: the capital of two empires for 1,600 years, spread across Europe and Asia on the shores of the Bosphorus, and today a metropolis of irresistible energy. We cover the best places to eat, drink, stay and explore, the stories behind them, and the neighbourhoods that make the city: Sultanahmet, Beyoğlu and Galata, Kadıköy and Moda on the Asian side, the villages of the Bosphorus and the car-free Princes’ Islands.
Between two continents
Take the ferry
The best ride in Istanbul costs the price of a bus ticket: hop on a city ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy, buy a tea and a simit, and watch the domes of the old city slide past.
How the ferries workArts & Culture in Istanbul
Hagia Sophia, the palaces, the museums and the opera: two empires’ worth of art and architecture, and a modern scene from Istanbul Modern to Kadıköy.
Our advice
Early in Sultanahmet
See Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern early on a weekday, then take a public ferry across the Bosphorus to Kadıköy: Europe to Asia, the way Istanbullus cross every day. History & heritage
History & heritage
How a Greek colony on the Bosphorus became the capital of two empires for some sixteen centuries, and today the largest city in Europe, on two continents.
Istanbul by neighbourhood
From the domes of Sultanahmet to the rooftops of Galata, the markets of Kadıköy, the villages of the Bosphorus and the car-free Princes’ Islands.
Our advice
The Ottoman city
See Topkapı on a weekday morning, the Süleymaniye at the end of an afternoon, and Dolmabahçe on a separate day with a Bosphorus ferry. The Ottoman capital
Istanbul: the back story
Byzantium, Constantinople, the Ottoman capital and the Republic: 2,600 years on the shores of the Bosphorus.
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HOT TOPICS · Have Your Say
The latest from our readers: visitors and locals talking about Istanbul, its food, the Bosphorus, the bazaars and the Princes’ Islands.
This week's pick
Süleymaniye Mosque
Autumn light is perfect for the Süleymaniye: come at the end of the afternoon, walk around Sinan’s courtyard and stand on the terrace behind the mosque as the sun sets over the Golden Horn.
Find out moreEvery list in the guide
- Restaurants33
- Cafés15
- Bars & meyhanes16
- Nightlife13
- Hotels25
- Sights33
- Arts & Culture29
- Hammams & spas7
- Parks & nature6
- Shopping18
- Getting aroundGuide
- Sultanahmet guideGuide
- Beyoğlu & Galata guideGuide
- Kadıköy & Moda guideGuide
- The Bosphorus guideGuide
- The Princes’ Islands guideGuide
- Luxury Living guideGuide
- Sapanca & Maşukiye guideGuide
- Bursa & Uludağ guideGuide
- Şile & Ağva guideGuide
- Kilyos & the Black Sea guideGuide
- The Marmara Coast guideGuide
- Edirne guideGuide
- Gallipoli & Troy guideGuide
- Bodrum guideGuide
- Antalya guideGuide
- Fethiye & Ölüdeniz guideGuide
- Kaş & Kekova guideGuide
- Karaköy guideGuide
- Nişantaşı guideGuide
- Bebek & the Bosphorus Villages guideGuide
- Balat & Fener guideGuide
Plan your day
Know your neighbourhoods
Sultanahmet
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı and the Basilica Cistern on the first hill.
Explore SultanahmetEminönü & the bazaars
The Spice Bazaar, the Grand Bazaar, the Süleymaniye and the ferry piers.
Explore Eminönü & the bazaarsBeyoğlu & Galata
İstiklal Avenue, the Galata Tower, meyhanes, rooftops and the antiques of Çukurcuma.
Explore Beyoğlu & GalataKaraköy
The reborn port quarter: Galataport, Istanbul Modern, cafés, baklava and bank palaces.
Explore KaraköyBeşiktaş & Ortaköy
Dolmabahçe, Çırağan, Ortaköy Mosque and the Bosphorus palace hotels.
Explore Beşiktaş & OrtaköyNişantaşı
The smart district of boutiques, cafés, Maçka Park and fine dining.
Explore NişantaşıBalat, Fener & Eyüp
Colourful lanes, the Chora, the land walls and Pierre Loti Hill on the Golden Horn.
Explore Balat, Fener & EyüpKadıköy & Moda
The Asian side’s market, bars and seafront.
Explore Kadıköy & ModaÜsküdar & the Asian shore
Sinan’s mosques, the Maiden’s Tower, Kuzguncuk and Beylerbeyi Palace.
Explore Üsküdar & the Asian shoreOur favourites right now
Restaurants
- 1Meze, kebab and the lokanta: the Istanbul table, the back storyIstanbul · In depth: food
- 2TURK Fatih TutakBomonti · Modern Turkish
- 3NeolokalKaraköy · Modern Turkish
Cafés
- 1Turkish coffee and tea: the back storyIstanbul · In depth: culture
- 2MandabatmazBeyoğlu · Turkish coffee
- 3Kurukahveci Mehmet EfendiEminönü · Coffee roaster
Bars & meyhanes
- 1Rakı and the meyhane: the back storyBeyoğlu · In depth: culture
- 2Asmalı CavitAsmalımescit · Meyhane
- 3RefikAsmalımescit · Meyhane
Nightlife
- 1Babylon BomontiBomonti · Live music venue
- 2Nardis Jazz ClubGalata · Jazz club
- 3Kadife Sokak (Barlar Sokağı)Kadıköy · Bar street
Hotels
- 1The Bosphorus palace hotels: the back storyBeşiktaş · In depth: hotels
- 2Çırağan Palace KempinskiBeşiktaş · Palace hotel
- 3Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the BosphorusBeşiktaş · Luxury hotel
Sights
- 1Byzantium: the back storySultanahmet · In depth: history
- 2Constantinople: the back storySultanahmet · In depth: history
- 3The Ottoman capital: the back storyEminönü · In depth: history
Arts & Culture
- 1Sinan, İznik and the Ottoman arts: the back storyIstanbul · In depth: art
- 2Istanbul Archaeology MuseumsSultanahmet · Museum
- 3Museum of Turkish and Islamic ArtsSultanahmet · Museum
Hammams & spas
- 1The hammam: the back storyIstanbul · In depth: culture
- 2Cağaloğlu HamamıCağaloğlu · Historic hammam
- 3Hürrem Sultan HamamıSultanahmet · Historic hammam