The back story
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The back story
Balat & Fener: the back story
Greek, Jewish and Armenian quarters on the Golden Horn, now the city’s most photogenic streets.

Neighbourhood guide · on the Golden Horn
The old quarters on the Golden Horn: colourful houses climbing the hill, the iron church of St Stephen, Chora’s mosaics, the land walls and the cafés of Balat.
The back story
Greek, Jewish and Armenian quarters on the Golden Horn, now the city’s most photogenic streets.
Colourful lanes on the Golden Horn
The old quarters on the Golden Horn: painted houses, churches, synagogues, antiques and cafés.
Balat, FatihExplore View on map
A church made of iron
The cast-iron Bulgarian Orthodox church of 1898 on the Golden Horn shore at Balat, restored and reopened in 2018.
Mürsel Paşa Caddesi, Balat, FatihExplore View on map
The finest Byzantine mosaics
A former Byzantine monastery church near the land walls, with early 14th-century mosaics and frescoes; a mosque since 2024.
Derviş Ali, Kariye Camii Sokağı, FatihExplore View on map
The walls that held for a thousand years
The 5th-century land walls of Constantinople, running nearly 6 km from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn.
Edirnekapı, FatihExplore View on map
A Roman aqueduct over the traffic
The great 4th-century aqueduct that carried water into the city, striding over Atatürk Boulevard.
Atatürk Bulvarı, FatihExplore View on map
Pide from the oven
Long, boat-shaped pide from a wood-fired oven, near the Fatih Mosque.
Haydar Bey Caddesi, FatihExplore View on map
Coffee in colourful Balat
A specialty coffee shop in the lanes of Balat, among the painted houses.
Kürkçü Çeşmesi Sokağı No:5/A, Balat, FatihExplore View on map
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